Home
Posts
Article
Encyclopedia
Garden
Set
English
  
Followed
+
Follow
Posts (7058)
Miss Chen
15 hours ago
Miss Chen
玉蝶夏季养护在土壤、温度、光照以及浇水方面都是有要求的,建议选择易散热的泥炭土养殖玉蝶。夏季时也要注意遮光降温,以免玉蝶晒伤,晒太阳可以选在光照相对较弱的早晨和傍晚,浇水要等土壤干透,并选择合适的时间段。
1、 泥炭土 养护玉蝶主要考虑土壤的排水性和透气性,不要用颗粒很大的沙土养殖玉蝶。夏季时环境温度比较高,砂石还会吸收热量,可能导致盆土闷热,从而造成玉蝶黒腐。建议选择易散热的泥炭土,或者在普通的土壤中加入煤渣、草木灰等。 2、 适当降温 夏季时我国很多地方最高温度在40℃以上,高温对玉蝶的生长是非常不利的。室外养殖的玉蝶在夏季需要进行遮光降温处理,或者直接将玉蝶转移到半阴的室内养护,尽可能保证室温在35℃以下,以免植株高温而亡。
3、 遮光处理 玉蝶是非常喜好光照的,只有在光照充足的环境中玉蝶才会长得更好。但夏季的光照过于强烈,植株很容易晒伤,如果想要晒太阳建议选在光照相对较弱的早晨和傍晚。午后的光照是非常强烈的,室外养殖的玉蝶一定要及时转移。 4、 少量浇水 夏季给玉蝶浇水一定要等土壤干透,而且要选在凉爽的早晨或者晚上浇水。如果第二天会下雨,则不宜浇水,以免花盆积水导致烂根,也容易滋生病虫害。夏季温度高,水分蒸发比较快,需要定时观察土壤的情况,及时浇透水。
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
15 hours ago
Miss Chen
姬秋丽需要修剪枝叶、花朵以及根系,对于徒长的枝叶,可以重新扦插,提前备好盆土即可。对于花朵,可提前剪掉花苞,也可以凋谢后再剪花朵,修剪根系可以选在换盆之时,弱根、病根都要剪掉。注意修剪的工具要提前消毒,建议选在晴朗的天气进行修剪。
姬秋丽修剪方法 首先是修剪枝叶,姬秋丽在春秋季生长是比较旺盛的,如果发现枝叶太过混乱,可以减掉部分较为密集的枝叶。若是有徒长的枝条也要及时修剪,有枯黄老化的枝叶也要及时剪除,可节省养分,底部的落叶也要及时清理,防止病虫害。 其次是修剪花朵,姬秋丽会开花,而且花朵会消耗大量的养分。如果不想观赏花朵,可以提前将花苞剪除,节省下的养分可以供给枝叶生长。若是想要观赏花朵,在花朵凋谢的时候再将其剪除,注意掉落于底部的花朵要及时清理。 最后是修剪根系,可以选在更换盆土的时候修剪根系,大概1-2年换一次盆土。脱盆时去掉一部分旧土,然后将比较细弱的根须剪除。如果发现有病根、烂根也要及时剪掉,还要做好消毒工作,伤口晾干后再重新栽种。
姬秋丽修剪注意事项 修建时无论是使用何种工具都要提前消毒,以免引发病虫害。建议选在晴朗的天气进行修剪,徒长姬秋丽叶片和枝条,可以重新扦插,所以要提前准备好盆土。若是发现病叶,剪除后要及时喷洒药物,将植株转移到阴凉通风的地方养护。
0
0
Article
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
05-09
Miss Chen
黄花照波叶子烂了根没事时,还能够进行生长,此时需要及时剪掉腐烂的叶片,保证通风透气、光照充足的生长环境。黄花照波叶子腐烂,可能是施肥不当,肥料溅洒到叶片上导致的。也可能是持续的阳光照射灼伤叶片,破坏细胞结构导致的,还可能是遭受病虫的侵害。
黄花照波叶子烂了根没事能活 只有黄花照波的叶子腐烂并不会导致植株的死亡,只要及时将腐烂、坏死的部分剪掉,尽量放置在通风、光照时间充足的环境中生长,就能够正常生长,避免叶片生长过于潮湿,容易滋生病菌和感染病毒,造成枯萎、发黄、腐烂的现象。
黄花照波叶子腐烂的原因 黄花照波叶子腐烂,可能是由于施肥不当导致的。由于在施肥时,肥料很容易溅洒到叶片上面,大颗粒的有机质与氧气充分接触后,会发生化学反应,释放出大量的热量,导致水分蒸发过快,叶片会枯萎、腐烂。 黄花照波叶子腐烂,还可能是光照过于强烈导致的。在阳光持续的直射下,叶片中的细胞结构会遭到破坏,生命活动也会相对减缓,最终叶面也会受到损伤出现缺口,感染到空气中的细菌和病毒后,会发生腐烂的现象。 黄花照波叶子腐烂,也可能是遭受病虫的侵害。在没有定期修剪枝叶和疏松土壤的情况下,植物的通风和透光性较差,促使处于阴暗、潮湿的环境中生长,增大了病虫侵害的概率,害虫会蛀食植株的叶片,煤烟病、白斑病会直接导致叶子腐烂。
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
05-08
Miss Chen
Distribution and habitat: Phyllostachys aurea is a running type of bamboo native to China which was introduced in Taiwan and in Japan long ago. These cold hardy bamboo was naturalised in Indonesia, New Zealand, southern USA, Australia and Hawaii. Description: Phyllostachys aurea are easily identified by their characteristic compressed internodes in the lower part of the canes which have a tortoiseshell-like appearance. This internodal compression result in shorter heights and thicker cane diameters (relative to height) than many other Phyllostachys species. The canes are typically green, but will turn yellow in full or partial sun, and deepen into a gold-orange colour as the plant matures. Branching and foliage tend to start lower to the ground than many other Phyllostachys, but some prefer to cut off lower branches to show off the interesting ‘tortoise shell’ lower part of the canes. The leaves are clustered and produced on short shoots which grow from the joints on the branches. They consist of a leaf sheath 25-35mm long, which surrounds the stem and a spreading leaf blade. The base of the leaf blade is very narrow and stalk-like in appearance. Leaf sheaths are mostly hairless, except near their margins and where the sheath meets the leaf blade there is a tiny membranous structure about 1mm long topped with long hairs. On either side of this structure there are sometimes also 1-3 larger bristles. The leaf blades, 5-15cm (2-6 inch) long and 5-22mm wide are elongated in shape, may be either hairless or softly hairy and have rough but entire margins. Flowers and seeds are very rarely produced, if ever. When produced, flowers occur in spikelets up to 5cm (2 inch) long with 8 to 12 flowers. Most reports indicate that Phyllostachys aurea produces masses of flowers sporadically and synchronously, but reported intervals between mass flowering events range from 7 to 30 years. When they do come into flower most of the plants energies are directed into producing seed and consequently the plant is severely weakened. They sometimes die after flowering, but if left alone they will usually recover though they will look very poorly for a few years. Phyllostachys aurea is a long-lived bamboo with upright stems usually growing 2-8m (6-26 feet) tall, but occasionally reaching up to 12m (40 feet) in height. Plants form dense or loose clumps and spread rapidly via creeping underground stems, with the upright stems being produced from their joints. They will grow in large thickets or groves if left alone.
Gardening: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated as an ornamental plant for gardens. It is the most commonly cultivated bamboo in the United States. Growing rigidly upright, this bamboo is one of the best for hedges and for planting next to driveways and walkways. Phyllostachys aurea can be an aggressive spreader in hot climates, where care must be used in its placement. It is a fast grower in warm climate zones, but less aggressive in colder climates. Provides a thick impenetrable grove when untrimmed. In some micro climates of zone 6, this species does not remain evergreen. This beautiful bamboo will drop foliage when temps drop to around 15°C bellow 0 (5°F). Canes will most likely be killed when temps drop to 20°C below 0 (-5°F). Unless temps drop to 34°C bellow 0 (-30°F) the root system of established well mulched groves will put up new canes each spring. But, these plants will need a frost-free period of at least 26 weeks to survive. Of course, growth rate depends a lot on soil, climate, food and water. Small plants are slow to get going, so starting off with a bigger plant will grow much faster. Location: Phyllostachys aurea will grow in sparsely wooded secondary forests and does best in full sun or part shade. It is best to protect these plants from cold drying winds. Soil: Phyllostachys aurea growth is considered best in rich, deep, well-drained sands or in moist, deep loams with a pH between 5 and 7,5. These plants need a soil depth of at least 36cm (14 inch) for good growth. Although, it may persist on a variety of soils, stem diameter and height are likely reduced in fine textured and/or poorly drained soils. These plants should be planted where they can be monitored and contained. The use of barriers, sunk to a depth of 60cm (24 inch) may contain their spread. Irrigation: Give to this bamboo species plenty of water in warmer months. These plants will be less likely to suffer from overwatering. Phyllostachys aurea prefers moist soil and established plants can tolerate drought. Fertilising: Fertilise Phyllostachys aurea in spring with decayed animal manure. Container plants: Phyllostachys aurea can be grown in containers. When grown in containers these plants will not exceed 2m (6 feet) in height. The containers should be at least 30cm (12 inch) diameter and filled with good moisture retaining compost based on peat, leaf mould and charcoal. They need to be kept well watered. Spray the foliage when grown indoors. Fertilise monthly with liquid fertiliser if used in a container. Propagation: Phyllostachys aurea by division in spring as new growth commences. Divisions from the open ground do not transplant well, so will need careful treatment and nurturing under cover in pots until at least late spring. Division is best carried out in wet weather and small divisions will establish better than large clumps. Alternatively, take large divisions from established clumps and transfer them straight to their permanent positions, misting or drenching them frequently until they are established. Also, Phyllostachys aurea can be propagated by basal cane cuttings in spring. Plant pieces of runners in early spring, just as new shoots are bursting into life. Keep them continuously moist and these soon root in the pot and continue growing. Problems: Bamboo is a strong and resilient plant and is more likely to die from lack or too much water. The most common pests are most likely biological and come in forms of insects such as aphids, scales, mealybugs and mites. Treatment: Use adequate pesticide to combat these insects. It is essential that the pesticide to be applied to both leaf surfaces. When chemical application is not feasible, infested plants can be cut down and infested debris destroyed to avoid reinfestation. Note: In sub-tropical and warmer temperate regions, Phyllostachys aurea is problematic in untended areas, near gardens, along roadsides and waterways and in urban bushland. Rhizome growth by these bamboo clones can result in the development of dense thickets and colonies. A single Phyllostachys aurea clump can produce up to 15 km (9.3 miles) of stems in its lifetime. This bamboo once established, is very aggressive in both its rate of growth as well as the sprouting of new stems. Spread is often rapid in all directions from the point of establishment.
Management and control: This bamboo is fast growing and will quickly spread via underground rhizomes. Despite containment efforts, the rhizomes of Phyllostachys aurea will often find their way out of confinement to infest nearby areas. The first step in preventative control of Phyllostachys aurea is to limit planting and removal of existing plants within the landscape. Care must be exercised to prevent seed spread and dispersal during the removal process. Cutting and mowing can be used on small infestations or where herbicides cannot be used. Cut plants as close to the ground as possible. Repeat several times throughout the growing season as plants resprout. Monitoring and re-treatment will be necessary for several growing seasons until the energy reserves in the rhizomes are exhausted. Foliar applications are most effective if canes are cut and herbicides applied to newly expanded leaves. Air temperature should be above 18°C (65°F) to ensure absorption of herbicides. Uses and display: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated for its edible shoots in China; it has the sweetest taste of the genus. It has been widely planted as an ornamental in the Mediterranean and seems to be naturalizing there. This is a good companion species to grow in a woodland because the plants have shallow root systems that do not compete with deep tree roots. Grown for its screening abilities, Phyllostachys aurea provides visual as well as noise barriers. It is a prime choice for privacy screening or a bamboo fence. Also, this bamboo is suitable for planting in tubs or planter boxes: balconies, patios or indoor displays of bamboo create an exotic atmosphere. Container Plants Height: 2m (6 feet) Ground Planting Height: 8-12 (26-40 feet) Hardiness zone: 6a-11
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
05-07
Miss Chen
黄花照波繁殖的方法有播种、扦插、分株三种。在播种繁殖时,需要选择表面光滑、没有病虫害的种子,与湿苔藓混合催芽后,再播种到土壤中,一般8~10天就能发芽。在扦插繁殖时,需要选用饱满、厚实的叶片,从叶柄摘下后,垂直插入土壤当中,一般18~20天就能够生根。
黄花照波繁殖的方法 黄花照波可以通过播种、扦插、分株的方法进行繁殖。在播种繁殖时,温度需要控制在20~22摄氏度之间,选择表面光滑、饱满、没有病虫害的种子,用清水冲洗干净以后,搓掉种子的外皮后,就能够直接进行播种。 也可以将处理完的种子与湿苔藓混合催芽,放置在阴凉的地方培养,每隔2~3天浇一次水,一般7~10天就能够进行播种。在播种种子时,需要先浸泡在热水中2~3个小时,然后均匀播撒到土壤当中,再填上一层厚度为1~2厘米的土壤。
在扦插繁殖时,黄花照波主要通过叶插的方式完成。需要选择生长饱满、厚实、具有光泽的叶片,然后从叶柄上摘下,用清水冲洗干净以后,在伤口处涂上多菌灵溶液,垂直插入到含有沙土、腐叶土、珍珠岩的混合土壤中。 在分株繁殖时,需要选择1~2年生、生长茂密、健康的母株,将植株从土壤中挖出,修剪损伤、腐烂的根系,再分剪成长度为3~5厘米,宽度为1~2厘米的小株,然后栽种到含有一半培养土,一半新土的盆土当中。
0
0
Article
Miss Chen
05-06
Miss Chen
Houseplant care: Indoor cultivation of Camellia japonica is bound to be plagued by some problems as they are very sensitive to any change in their position, temperature, humidity and moisture. They drop their buds easily, especially if they do not get enough water when they are forming flower and leaf buds (and in any case, are unlikely to flower well indoors, unless they are grown in a cool, conservatory-type situation). In warm weather, they are better off being transferred to the garden, if possible (the pot can be buried in the soil for the duration) or to a semi-shady spot on a verandah.
Light: Grow Camellia japonica in bright filtered light throughout the year. Temperature: In the dry warmth of the average home Camellia japonica will not flower, but they grow well in cool porches, patios and plant rooms such as conservatories. An ideal temperature during the bud-forming stage (autumn and winter) is between 7 and 16°C (45-61°F). Camellia japonica cannot survive for long time indoor temperature above 18°C (64°F). Stand the pots on trays of moist pebbles and mist-spray the plants at least once a day. Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully but never allowing the pot to stand in water. During the rest period – about six weeks from the end of the flowering season until late spring or autumn (depending on the variety) – water only enough to keep the potting mixture from drying out. Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period. Potting and repoting: Use equal parts of peat moss, coarse leaf mould and a lime-free soil based potting mixture. Move plants into slightly larger pots in autumn whenever necessary. After maximum convenient size pot has been reached, top-dress the plant with fresh potting mixture at the end of each rest period. Do not repot plant in flower. Gardening: Camellia japonica will grow in most areas apart from the hot tropics. This plant is normally hard to minus 12°C (10°F), but sudden changes in temperature can damage the foliage or kill open flower buds. A light trim every two or three years is adequate, rather than an annual prune. It will reduce the canopy and force the flowering growth out, making the bloom more visible and will lower down the shrub. As an optional practice, can be removed some flower buds (called “debudding”) to promote larger, showier blooms. To do this, simply remove a bud that is touching another or remove all the interior buds and just leave the ones on the tips of the branches. Location: Camellia japonica need protection from direct sun and strong winds. They grow best in partial shade as they do not like early morning or late afternoon sun. A planting site under tall pine trees or on the north or west side of a building is ideal. The plants grown in full sun may develop leaf scorch. In the winter Camellia japonica need protection from direct sun and drying winds. Soil: Camellia japonica prefer a slightly acid (pH 5.5-6.0), humus-rich soil with good drainage. Incorporate a 5 to 8cm (2-3 inch) layer of organic matter such as pine bark mulch before planting. In areas with alkaline soils, they may need to be grown in containers with potting mix for acid loving plants. Late fall to winter is the best time to plant or transplant Camellia japonica. Space plants according to their mature size. Space plants about 1.8m (6 feet) apart when planting a hedge. Individual holes should be two to three times as wide as the root ball. The depth of the hole should be the same as the root ball. Place the plant root ball into the planting hole and fill the hole with soil, tamping it down as it is filled. Avoid planting this plant too deep. Water heavily, to settle the soil and remove air pockets in the soil. After planting, mulch the plants with a 8 to 10cm (3-4 inch) of pine bark to help maintain the moisture. Irrigation: Camellia japonica plants are moderate drinkers and they are not particularly drought-tolerant, although older plants are more adaptable. Keep Camellia japonica well watered, particularly when they are in bud or in bloom or when the weather is hot and dry. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times. Special attention needs new planted Camellia japonica. Keep it well watered until it is well established. In a high rainfall area it will probably require raised beds, to allow any excess water to run away easily. Fertilise: Camellia japonica are generally not heavy feeders, but if growth is weak or the leaves begin to turn yellow, they should be fertilised with a slow release fertiliser in late winter or very early in the spring when new growth begins. Always water fertilised plants thoroughly after the application. At the same time, mulch the plant for enriching the soil and maintaining the soil moisture. Propagation: Camellia japonica are mostly propagated by cuttings. However, this procedure is quite difficult to carry through successfully and the amateur gardener is best advised to leave propagation to the experts and purchase a healthy young tree from a reputable nursery or plant supplier. Propagation from cuttings is done with softwood cuttings taken from new growth in early summer, but it is a slow process. Each cutting should have at least 5 nodes. Remove the lowest leaves and trim the remaining leaves by one half before inserting the cutting into a sand and peat moss mix. Use rooting hormone to stimulate roots growth. Insert the cuttings one-third to one-half their length into the medium. Maintain the vertical orientation of the stem. The cuttings should never be allowed to dry out and should be kept moist at all times. Cover the cuttings with plastic bag and place in indirect light. When new growth emerge is sigh that the plant have been rooted (will take few months to root). At this moment remove the bag and water the cuttings enough to keep the potting mixture just moist. The fastest and most reliable method of propagating new Camellia japonica plants is by air layering. This method will allow much larger clones to be created. Air layering of these plants can be done at any time of the year but the best results are accomplished if the process is done in the spring when the plant is actively growing. Select a limb to air-layer. Cut through the bark a section of about 3cm (1 inch) at approximately (18-24 inch) from the top of the plant. The idea is to remove the bark on this section. After pealing off the bark, a green film like coating will surround the woody part of stem which have to be removed so that the bark will not grow back. Use a knife to scarp it away down to the woody part of stem. Use sphagnum peat moss completely saturated with water as medium for roots to grow on. Squeeze the excessive water from the sphagnum moss to make this to be moist but not wet and arrange it around the prepared stem for air layering (the segment with the bark pealed out). Wrap a piece or plastic around the sphagnum moss ball to keep the ball in place and preserve its moisture. Finally wrap the entire thing in aluminum foil to protect the ball. Always keep the ball loose. It takes 3-6 months for the air-layering to establish sufficient roots to survive when is cut off from the parent plant. Once enough roots are formed the next step is to sever the air-layer from the original plant, cutting just below the root ball. Plant the new plant in a container (better for the new plant to establish quicker after severing from the parent plant) or in ground. Furthermore, treat the new plat as a mature Camellia japonica.
Camellia seeds harvested from hybrid plants may be sterile and those that are viable may produce plants that are not true to their parent. Soak Camellia seeds in warm water for 24 hours before sowing them indoors during the spring or fall. Maintain a temperature in the growing medium of 21 to 24°C (70-75°F) until germination, which takes 1-2 months. Problems: Scale and spider mites are the main insect problems with Camellia japonica. Treatment: Treat with insecticidal soap, spray or alcohol. To help prevent the fungus known as petal blight, rake up and remove fallen blooms and petals. If the leaf veins are turning yellow, the soil pH may be too high. To find out, conduct a soil test and adjust as needed. Camellias naturally shed older leaves, so a small amount of leaf loss is normal. Large amounts of dead, yellowed, or blotchy leaves can be a sign of disease or pest. Buying tips: Inspect plants closely before buying. Look for wounds or scars at the base of the plant that can become cankerous and cause the plant to die. Check the root system as well. Look for white roots. If the roots are brown, the plant have been poorly cared for or may have a soil borne disease.
0
0
Article
Related Users
Elite Article
FeedBack

You have any problems or suggestions, please leave us a message.

Please enter content
Download GFinger APP

Scan QR code, download GFinger APP to read more.

QR Code

Scanning QR Code, directly to see the home page

Switch Language
Set
VIP
Sign out
Share

Share good articles, GFinger floral assistant witness your growth.

Please go to the computer terminal operation

Please go to the computer terminal operation

Forward
Insert topic
Remind friend
Post
/
Submit success Submit fail Picture's max size Success Oops! Something wrong~ Transmit successfully Report Forward Show More Article Help Time line Just Reply Invite you to chat together! Expression Add Picture comment Only support image type .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF Image can't small than 300*300px At least one picture Please enter content